SorsogonWeb | Province of Sorsogon | Philippines

This writer first visited the province of Sorsogon in the early 1980s. We had driven through the night from Manila and arrived in the town of Irosin by dawn. Charming Irosin is Sorsogon’s answer to Vigan, what with the several Spanish-style homes that stood on its streets. Our host then was the stage actor Chris Michelena, whose ancestral home was a huge house that had been built in the 19th century.

Irosin was peaceful and seemed scarcely populated. Only one resident owned a newspaper, which was usually two days old. Nevertheless, in Irosin, a two-day old paper was considered hot off the press.

From Irosin, we explored dormant Mt. Bulusan, which loomed over the quaint little town. Attractions included the Palagtoc Falls and Bulusan Lake, which was picturesque but deafeningly quiet. An armed soldier escorted us—soldiers of the then NPA-infested Bulusan. But nothing untoward happened; Bulusan was enchanting; especially to this writer who was still at a very impressionable age then.

For this reason, we jumped at the chance to visit Sorsogon again when The Manila Times photo editor Albert Garcia was invited by the Sorsogon Heritage Society, which intends to promote Sorsogon as an important destination.

Situated at the southern-most tip of Luzon and the Bicol Region, Sorsogon was once part of Albay. In 1894, the Spanish regime made Sorsogon a separate pro-vince. Since then, however, it has stood in the shadow of the more prosperous pro-vinces of Albay and Camarines Sur. No commercial flights reach Sorsogon, making the place too far for most tourists. Its culture, which is said to be very rich hasn’t been fully established. The Sorsogon Heritage Society intends to fix that. The society’s founding members, consisting of journalist Rod Dula, University of the East Caloocan dean Theresa Erestain, artist Mari De Vera, and historian Henry Tatono, and others, are busy recording their homeland’s history. Other duties include colla-ting the literature of Sorsogon’s poets and writers, and establishing various folklore and information, all of which are expected to form a colorful heritage.

The trip to capital city Sorsogon took 12 hours by Philtranco’s luxurious air-conditioned bus. Sorsogon City was now bustling and a complete contrast to the city of yore. Information was now within easy grasp. Internet cafes are plentiful, and residents appear to be hooked on cable TV.

Happily, much of the countryside remains unchanged. The landscape is beautiful. The roads to most of the key towns are well paved; a drive in a jeepney or bus will prevent you from appreciating its beauty. It’s best to tour the province in an open car.

Irosin was busier now, but the houses are still there. Bulusan is still verdant and restful, especially during the late afternoons. Palugtok Falls remains unchanged; it’s as tranquil as ever. Ditto with Bulusan Lake, which is now well maintained and safe.

Our party was fortunate to be the guests of Bulusan resident Mari De Vera, whose lovely rest house sits on the slopes of Bulusan. Ensconced in a forest, the house was built by her father in 1928. It makes the ideal working place for artists like De Vera. The home at this moment is being renovated. The four-hectare pro-perty contains a swimming pool, which sources its water from the mountain’s springs.

”I hope to turn this place into a cultural center,” says the ebullient, vivacious lady of the house. “We could hold plays here, or poetry readings, reci-tals, and art festivals.”

Gubat, a 30-minute drive from Sorsogon City, boasts of some of the most pristine beaches in the country. Theresa Erestain hosted a sumptuous lunch at her elegant rest house on Rizal Beach. The sand was crystal white; the waters are shallow, though the giant waves of the magnificent Pacific Ocean can be seen about a hundred yards from the shore.

Unlike Bulusan, the town of Gubat curiously isn’t woodsy. The town’s name originates from the Bicol term for “raid.” Moros used to invade Gubat’s coastal area during the Spanish period. Today, the town is very quiet, especially du-ring evenings.

Gubat’s residents happen to very proud of the town’s landmarks. In 1966, cast and crew of the movie Longest 100 Miles arrived in Gubat and used the town’s church as the main setting of the movie’s story. Townfolks were enamored by the pre-sence of stars like Ricardo Montalban, Katherine Ross, and Doug McClure. For a crucial scene, the producers asked if they could blow up the church. They pro-mised to rebuild it after shooting, but the entire town said NO. The church remains intact, standing proudly near Rizal Beach.

Bacon was the first town to be established in the province. Strangely, the town was recently annexed by the capital city of Sorsogon. Every home standing on the main road of Bacon has well-trimmed gardens. The roads themselves are immaculate and lined with plants.

As with Irosin, the town of Barcelona features several structures built in the 19th century. Buildings in ruins, especially those that stood by the coast make Barcelona seem like European coastal town.

The town of Prieto-Diaz is the site of one of the country’s biggest mangroves. It takes an entire morning to tour this incredible site by banca. According to Sorsogon City resident David Durano, the mangroves have an area of 600 hectares. It faces the Pacific Ocean, and is maintained by the DENR and the town’s local government.

Eco-tours to Prieto-Diaz, Bulusan, and whale-sightseeing tours, can be arranged at the Fernandos Hotel in Sorsogon City.

Compared to Irosin, Prieto-Diaz is a sleepy town, but town Mayor Benito Doma was up and about, jittery by the prospect of a visit from President Gloria Macapagal-Arroyo. The President was sche-duled to tour the mangrove. To Mayor Doma, it was a surreal event.

“It’s hard to believe,” said the gracious Mayor. “I’m not getting my hopes up—it could get cancelled at the last minute, but if she does arrive, it will be a dream come true.”

Theresa Erestain maintains that Sorsogon province is among the most depressed areas in the Philippines. The local folk aren’t about to despair. Last October, the people of Sorsogon threw a huge party, marking the 107th anniversary of the province. Prior to our departure for Manila, the streets of the capital were filled with costumed re-velers celebrating this milestone dubbed the Kasanggayahan Festival. Representatives from various towns proudly performed the Pantomina sa Tinampo, a traditional dance that expresses the courtship movements of birds.

The gamiest dancer of the parade was President Arroyo, whose partner was none other than the star struck Mayor Doma himself. With the presence of the President, Sorsogon has apparently earned a more prominent place on the map. It’s indeed a cause for celebration.